Can I Grow That Here? Vegetable Seed and Transplant Schedules for Garden or Container
Includes information on days to maturity, planting dates, sun requirements, weeks to transplant size and frost tolerance for 34 vegetables.
Last Updated: 11/18by Amy Grandpre, MSU Extension horticulture assistant, Yellowstone County
THIS MONTGUIDE IS DESIGNED TO HELP AGENTS
or individuals in different areas of Montana calculate the specific time to plant seeds or start transplants and plant them at the proper time. With a limited growing season in much of Montana, this should help gardeners get the most from the growing season they do have. This guideline can be completed by either the agent (if the county has uniform frost dates throughout) or by the individual gardener, once frost dates are determined.
Procedure
Define the average first frost date in the fall and the average last frost date in the spring for your area. Then, with the aid of a calendar, calculate from those dates the spring planting dates for your area and the transplant starting dates. Remember to calculate both dates if a variable is given.
Example: Weeks to transplant size, 3–5. Calculate both three weeks before your planting date and also five weeks before your planting date to give you a wider range of time in which to start transplants. This is also the way to calculate your planting dates if variables are given.
For example, snap beans can be planted one week before the last frost to 12 weeks before first frost. Calculate the date one week before last frost date and then the date 12 weeks before first frost. This is your planting range of time. For more information on particular varieties, check seed packets for special instructions and transplant guidelines.
You can also use this publication to answer the title question: Can I grow that here? Once you know the average dates of the last frost in spring and the first frost in fall, count the number of days between. If the “days to maturity” figure for the vegetable you want to grow is a larger number of days and the “frost tolerance” column indicates “none,” the sad truth is that you probably can’t grow that particular vegetable. But as you will see, there are many things that can be grown in most of Montana. Begin by establishing the specific dates for your garden space.
Average date of last frost in spring:______________
Average date of first frost in fall:________________
Number of frost-free growing days:_____________
Vegetable |
Days to maturity | Spring/fall planting dates |
Weeks totransplant size | Sun requirement | Frost tolerance | Greenhouse grown? | Soil temperature for germination | Container size |
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Bush: 75—80 Pole: 85—90 |
1 week before last frost to 12 weeks before first frost Dates: |
Direct seed | Needs full sun | None | No | 65–85 degrees |
12 inches wide 8–10 inches deep |
|
Succession plant bush varieties every week or two, up to last planting date |
Container varieties: Bush Baby, Fordhook Bush Lima, Fordhook 242, Henderson | |||||||
| BEAN, SNAP | 52–70 |
1 week before last frost to 12 weeks before first frost Dates: |
Direct seed |
Needs full sun |
None | No | 60–85 degrees |
8 inches wide 8–10 inches deep |
|
Pole beans tend to mature later than most varieties of bush bean. Succession plant bush types once a week, up to last planting date. |
Container varieties: Bush Romano, Contender, Provider and Tendercrop Stringless |
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BEET |
50–80 |
4 weeks before last frost to 8–10 weeks before first frost
Dates: |
Direct seed |
Needs full sun |
Hardy |
No |
50–75 degrees |
2–12 inches deep |
|
Succession plant every 2–3 weeks, up to last planting date. |
Container varieties: Baby Canning and Spinel Baby Beets |
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BROCCOLI |
60–80 after transplanting |
6 weeks before last frost to 14 weeks before first frost
Dates: |
6–8; Start transplants: |
At least 5 hours daily |
Hardy |
No |
50–65 degrees |
20 inches deep |
|
Succession planting: If summers are not too hot, plant more broccoli one month after first planting, up to last planting date. |
Container variety: Any will work. Crusader Hybrid is smaller and more compact. |
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BRUSSELS SPROUTS |
80–90 after transplanting |
6 weeks before last frost to 3 weeks after last frost
Dates:
|
6–8; Start transplants: |
At least 6 hours daily |
Hardy |
No |
65–75 degrees |
12 inches wide 12 inches deep |
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Sprouts harvested after moderate freezes are much sweeter in taste. |
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CABBAGE |
60–90 after transplanting |
6 weeks before last frost to 13 weeks before first frost
Dates:
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6–8; Start transplants: |
At least 5 hours daily |
Hardy |
No |
50–75 degrees |
8–10 inches wide
12 inches deep |
|
Over–fertilization or cold weather in the five- to eight-leaf stage will cause poor or misshapen heading. |
Container varieties: Baby Head or Dwarf Morden |
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CARROT |
60–80 after direct seeding |
4 weeks before last frost to 13 weeks before first frost Date: |
Direct seed |
At least 5 hours daily |
Hardy |
No |
55–75 degrees |
10–12 inches deep or deeper |
|
Succession plant every 2–3 weeks up to last planting date. |
Container varieties: short rooted such as Baby Finger Nantees, Gold Nugget, Oxheart, Short ’n’Sweet and Tiny Sweet |
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CAULI- FLOWER |
50–95 after transplanting |
3 weeks before last frost to 14 weeks before first frost
Dates:
|
4–5; Start transplants: |
At least 6 hours daily |
Hardy |
No |
50–75 degrees |
No |
|
Weather conditions influence the growth of cauliflower more than any other vegetable. Extreme heat or cold can cause serious crop reductions |
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Vegetable |
Days to maturity |
Spring/fall planting dates |
Weeks to transplant size |
Sun requirement |
Frost tolerance |
Greenhouse grown? |
Soil temperature for germination |
Container size |
|
CELERY |
125 after direct seeding |
3 weeks before last frost to 19 weeks before first frost
Dates:
|
10 weeks; start transplants: |
At least 5 hours daily |
Hardy |
No |
50–70 degrees |
No |
|
Celery likes some shading in the heat of summer. Cold nights in early season will cause bolting. |
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CHARD |
55–60 after direct seeding |
4 weeks before last frost to 6 weeks before first frost Date: |
Direct seed |
At least 5 hours daily |
Hardy |
No |
40–70 degrees |
8–12 inches deep |
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Container variety: any variety |
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CHINESE CABBAGE |
45–60 after direct seeding,
40–50 after transplanting
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Spring—6 weeks before last frost to frost
Dates:
Fall—11 weeks before first frost
Dates:
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4 weeks; start spring trans- plants:
Start fall transplants: |
At least 6 hours daily |
Hardy |
Yes |
50–75 degrees |
20 inches deep |
|
Most varieties will bolt with first hot days of summer, so are best planted in summer for fall cropping. Some varieties dislike transplanting. |
Greenhouse varieties: any variety can be grown in a cool greenhouse. Container varieties: most varieties do well, but especially Bok Choy, Michihli and Wong Bok |
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COLLARD |
60–80 after direct seeding
|
Spring—4 weeks before last frost to 2 weeks after last frost Dates:
Fall—8 to 10 weeks before first frost
Dates:
|
Direct seed |
Needs full sun |
Hardy |
No |
40–70 degrees |
12 inches deep |
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Container variety: any variety grows well in containers |
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CORN, SWEET |
70–90+ |
From last frost to 3 weeks after frost
Dates: |
4 weeks; start transplants:
|
Needs full sun |
None |
No |
55 to 85 degrees |
21 inches wide
8 inches deep
|
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Succession plant second crop 3 weeks after first. |
Container variety: any space-saving variety |
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CUCUMBER |
50–70 |
1 week before last frost to 12 weeks before first frost Dates: |
4 weeks; start transplants: |
At least 5 hours daily |
None |
Yes |
65 to 85 degrees |
8 inches wide
12 inches deep
|
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Greenhouse varieties: special varieties are available including; Burpless Early Pik, Crispy Salty, Pot Luck, Patio Pik and Tiny Dill Cuke |
Container varieties: space-saving varieties such as Bush Crop, Patio Pic, Pot Luck and Space Master |
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EGGPLANT |
100–120
|
1 week before last frost to 14 weeks before first frost
Dates: |
6 to 10 weeks; start transplants: |
Needs full sun |
None |
No |
65 to 85 degrees |
12 inches deep |
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Container varieties: space-saving varieties such as Dusky, Baby Bell and Morden Midget |
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| Vegetable | Days to maturity | Spring/fall planting dates | Weeks to transplant size | Sun requirement | Frost tolerance | Greenhouse grown? | Soil temperature for germination | Container size |
| KALE | 55 to 75 after direct seeding |
Spring—5 weeks before last frost to 2 weeks after last frost Dates: Fall—6 to 8 weeks before first frost
Dates: |
Direct seed |
Needs at least 5 hours daily |
Hardy | No | 40 to 70 degrees |
8 inches wide 8 inches deep |
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Container variety: any variety will work. |
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| KOHLRABI | 45 to 60 after direct seeding, 25 to 35 after transplanting |
Spring—5 weeks before last frost to 2 weeks after last frost
Dates: Fall—10 weeks before first frost
Dates: |
6 to 8 weeks, Start spring transplants: Start fall transplants: |
Needs at least 5 hours daily |
Hardy |
No |
50 to 75 degrees |
No |
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Kohlrabi does not grow well in containers or in the greenhouse. |
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| LETTUCE | 40 to 60 after direct seeding, 25–35 after transplanting |
4 weeks before last frost to 6 weeks before first frost
Dates: |
4 to 6 weeks; start transplants:
|
At least 5 hours daily |
Hardy |
Yes |
45 to 75 degrees |
8 inches wide
8 inches deep
|
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Succession plant lettuce every 2 weeks up to last planting date, shifting to warm weather varieties for the summer months. Oak Leaf lettuce is heat resistant. |
Greenhouse varieties: Loose leaf varieties such as Arctic King, North Pole and Parris Cos perform best. Container variety: Any variety grows well, with partial shade. |
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MUSKMELON |
80 to 100 after transplanting |
1 week before last frost to 16 weeks before first frost Dates: |
3 to 4 weeks; start transplants: |
Needs full sun |
None |
Yes |
65 to 85 degrees |
At least 24 inches deep
|
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Greenhouse Varieties: New Hampshire Granite and Minnesota Midget |
Container varieties: Burpee’s Sugar Bush, New Hampshire Midget, Yellow Baby Hybrid, Musketeer and Bush Star |
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OKRA |
55 to 65 after direct seeding
|
1 week before last frost to 16 weeks before first frost Dates: |
6 to 8 weeks; start transplants: |
Needs full sun |
None |
No |
70 to 95 degrees |
No |
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Okra does not grow well in containers or in the greenhouse.
Okra responds well when grown with black plastic mulch. |
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ONION |
40 to 70 from sets |
Planting for sets and seeds—3 weeks before last frost to 2 weeks after last frost Dates: |
4 to 8 weeks; start transplants: |
Needs at least 5 hours daily |
Hardy |
Yes |
50 to 80 degrees |
10 to 12 inches deep |
|
For fall scallions, plant a second crop 8 weeks after the spring planting. Keep seedling tops trimmed to 1/2 inch until a week before planting outdoors. |
Container varieties: Any variety can be grown, but bunching onions are more productive in small spaces. Try Beltsville Bunching and White Pearl.
Greenhouse Variety: Try any variety. |
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Vegetable |
Days to maturity |
Spring/fall planting dates |
Weeks to transplant size |
Sun requirement |
Frost tolerance |
Greenhouse grown? |
Soil temperature for germination |
Container size |
|
PARSNIP |
100 to 120 after direct seeding |
2 to 4 weeks before last frost to 4 weeks after last frost Dates: |
Direct seed |
At least 5 hours daily |
Hardy |
No |
50 to 70 degrees |
No |
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Parsnips do not grow well in the greenhouse or in containers. |
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PEAS |
55 to 90 after direct seeding |
Spring—4 to 6 weeks before last frost to 2 to 3 weeks after last frost
Dates: Fall—12 weeks before first frost
Dates: |
Direct seed |
Needs full sun |
Very hardy |
No |
40 to 70 degrees |
12 inches deep |
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Container varieties: space-saving varieties such as Laxton’s Progress, Little Marvel, SugarBon, SugarMel and Sugar Rae
Dwarf peas still require a low trellis to keep air circulating through the vines.
Keep plants picked to encourage production, and keep soil moist once flowers appear. |
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PEPPER |
50 to 75 after transplanting |
1 week before last frost to 17 weeks before first frost Dates: |
6 to 8 weeks; start transplants: |
At least 6 hours daily |
None |
No |
65 to 85 degrees |
12 inches deep |
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Container varieties: space-saving varieties such as Canape, Gypsy Hybrid, Italian Sweet, Pepper Pot or any hot pepper variety |
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POTATO |
80 to 140 |
1 week before last frost to 17 weeks before first frost Dates: |
Direct plant |
Needs full sun
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Vegetation tender, potato tubers hardy |
No |
60 to 65 degrees |
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Potatoes cannot be grown in the greenhouse or in containers. |
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PUMPKIN |
100 to 120 after trans-planting |
After last frost date to 15 weeks before first frost Dates: |
4 weeks; start transplants: |
Needs full sun
|
Foliage No tender, pumpkins take a light frost or two |
No |
65 to 85 degrees |
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Harvest before a heavy freeze. Pumpkins cannot be grown in the greenhouse or in containers. |
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RADISH |
20 to 49 after direct seeding |
Spring—6 weeks before last frost Dates: Fall—7 weeks before first frost
Dates: |
Direct seed |
At least 6 hours daily |
Hardy |
Yes |
40 to 85 degrees |
4 to 6 inches deep |
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Succession plant radishes every 10 days until warm weather arrives (day tempera- tures of 70). For fall successions, plant every 10 days, up to last fall planting date. |
Greenhouse varieties: French Breakfast and Sparkler
Container varieties: Cherry Belle, Early Scarlet Globe, French Break- fast and Sparkler. The round red and white tipped varieties do best in containers. Stay away from large winter radishes. |
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RUTABAGA |
90 to 100 after direct seeding |
6 weeks before last frost to 16 weeks before first frost Dates: |
Direct seed |
At least 6 hours daily
|
Hardy |
No |
65 to 75 degrees |
No |
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Rutabagas cannot be grown in the greenhouse or in containers. |
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| Vegetable | Days to maturity | Spring/fall planting dates |
Weeks to transplant size | Sun requirement | Frost tolerance | Greenhouse grown? | Soil temperature for germination | Container size |
| SPINACH | 40 to 60 after direct seeding |
Spring—6 weeks before last frost to 7 weeks before mid-summer Dates: Fall—6 to 8 weeks before first frost Dates: |
Direct seed | At least 5 hours daily | Hardy | No | 40 to 75 degrees | 4 to 6 inches deep |
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Container variety: any variety Good hot weather substitute is New Zealand Spinach. |
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| SUMMER SQUASH |
45 to 60 after transplanting |
From last frost to 10 weeks before first frost Dates: |
4 weeks; start transplants: |
Needs full sun
|
None |
No |
65 to 85 degrees |
24 inches deep
|
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Container varieties: Early Yellow Summer Crookneck,
Goldbar Straightneck, Park’s Creamy and Scallopine |
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WINTER SQUASH |
85 to 100 after direct seeding, 60 to 80 after transplanting |
1 week before last frost to 13 weeks before first frost Dates: |
3 to 4 weeks; start transplants: |
Needs full sun |
None |
No |
65 to 85 degrees |
24 inches deep
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Container varieties: space-saving bush varieties such as Butterbush |
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TOMATO |
70 after transplanting |
1 week before last frost to 17 weeks before first frost
Dates: |
6 to 10 weeks; start transplants: |
Needs at least 8 hours or more full sun daily
|
None |
Yes |
65 to 85 degrees |
Dwarf varieties 6 inches deep Standard varieties 24 inches deep |
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Greenhouse variety: Patio, Small Fry and Tiny Tim
Container varieties: Patio VF, Pixie, Small Fry VFN, Sweet 100, Toy Boy, Tumblin’ Tom, Yellow Pear, and others designed for containers |
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TURNIP |
Greens—30 to 75 after direct seeding, Roots—60 to 75 after direct seeding |
Spring—6 weeks before last frost to mid-summer Dates: Fall—6 to 8 weeks before first frost
Dates: |
Direct seed |
At least 5 hours daily |
Hardy |
No |
60 to 75 degrees |
10 to 12 inches deep |
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Succession plant every 3 weeks till midsummer.
Container variety: Any variety can be grown in containers. |
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WATER- MELON |
30 to 100 warm days after trans-planting
|
1 week before last frost to 16 weeks before first frost Dates: |
3 to 4 weeks; start transplants: |
Needs full sun |
None |
No |
65 to 75 degrees |
24 inches deep |
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Container varieties: special varieties such as Sugar baby |
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This information was compiled from "Rodale's Garden Problem Solver," by Jeff Ball and "Planting Dates for Vegetables," Montana State University Leaflet 187