Q. I recently saw on Montana Ag Live where someone recommended digging up gladiolus bulbs in the fall and storing them for winter. Can you elaborate on how and when this is done? - Choteau County
A. Gladiolus are a beautiful addition to any garden, but their marginal winter hardiness often requires digging and storing the corms (i.e., the proper name for gladiolus bulbs) during winter, and replanting in spring. I recommend digging the corms after the first frost, allowing corms to mature as much as possible before removal. Dig the corms with a hardtined fork, taking care to not damage them. Any damage from digging or handling will decrease storage success and may cause rot. Clean soil off the corms, inspect them, and throw away any that are damaged or discolored. This also is a great time to divide the corms, which can be done by removing small cormlets from the bottom. Cut the tops of the foliage to about 2 inches above the corm and set the bulbs in the sun on a screen for 1-2 days to allow the outside of the bulbs to suberize (i.e., convert to tissue with a corky consistency). During this time, don’t let bulbs get wet, as this will decrease storage life. After they are completely dry (which may require bringing them indoors for another 2-3 weeks), store corms in boxes lined with newsprint. If you have many bulbs, layer them in newsprint to allow air movement. Cutting holes in boxes will increase air movement. Finally, store the bulbs at 35-40?F with low humidity in a dark location, such as an attached garage or basement, making sure not to let the corms freeze. The following spring, once soil is workable, you can plant them back in the garden.
Q. After a long gardening season, the wood handles of my tools look terrible. I have read a lot of conflicting ideas of how to maintain the handles. What are your recommendations? - Broadwater County
A. Wooden handles of garden tools can be worn, cracked, and weathered after a summer of gardening. However, tool handle maintenance does not have to be difficult. The handles first need to be sanded with 120-grit sandpaper until clean and smooth. If the tools have not been refinished for a while and are in pretty bad condition, you may want to use a vibrating or orbital sander, but often just hand sanding works fine. When the handle is sanded and clean, liberally rub a coat of boiled linseed oil on the handle. Linseed oil is very common and can be found at any hardware store. Be sure the oil penetrates into the handle before removing the remaining oil with a rag or paper towel. For complete oil penetration, consider oiling the handles twice. To keep handles in top condition, consider oiling them once during the gardening season, as well, to keep them from drying out.
Q. Boxelder bugs are invading my home. They are inside and out and they crawl on everything! Is there any way to get rid of them? - Park County
A. Boxelder bugs are not harmful, but they certainly can be a nuisance! The insects feed primarily on the seeds of female boxelder trees, but can feed on maple and ash seeds, as well. A drastic measure to get rid of them would be to remove the host tree(s). However, there are ways to reduce the numbers without cutting down a tree. First, sanitation around the outside of the home is paramount. Boxelder bugs overwinter in fallen leaves, usually on the south and west sides of the home, and feed on fallen seeds. Rake and clean up material to reduce overwintering. To keep them out of the home, caulk around windows and doors and keep weather stripping in good repair. If they are in the home, vacuum them up. Finally, use a pesticide as a barrier, several products will keep boxelder bugs at bay. Spray around the perimeter of the house, concentrating on south and west sides of the house. Also spray around doors and windows, depending on the product. Be sure to read the label and keep in mind that it is not advised to use indoor sprays because they aren’t very effective and new pests often invade shortly after spraying.